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Written by Andy Collins
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The importance of being elegant
Fashion has always been a passion of mine. Inspired by the fifties dressed Kid Creole and the Coconuts I even worked for a period in Kensington co-designing and selling classic menswear to artists like Chris Issac, Take That and even Kylie Minogue. High waisted trousers, black/white leather brogue shoes, single and double breasted jackets in a range of colours and materials have all adorned me at some point, and I adored them.
Although hip hop and causal wear have dominated fashion over the past decade, and I too succumbed as my waist expanded, I've still always felt there was room for classic mens styles to return.
So it was with great joy that I came across the Gentlemen of Bakongo, Brazzaville. When Italian photographer Daniele Tamagni went to Congo he was immediately stunned by the very well-dressed Sapeurs.
The congalese community that worships style
The Sapeurs (the Society for the Advancement of People of Elegance) who fantasize about walking the streets of Paris or Brussels - places most can only dream of visiting - and then returning to Brazzaville as sartorial aristocrats of ultimate elegance. Their distinctive look is a way of rebelling against the dictatorial decree that everyone should dress in traditional African costume.
These very elegant, Cohiba cigar smoking gentlemen literally spend any money they have to achieve their look and abide by strict moral codes.
 “The cigar is the symbol par excellence of the Sapeur,” states Sapeur extraordinaire, Hassan Salvadore, the respected leader of The Piccadilly Group of Bakongo. “The cigar is expensive and has a very important role because it gives value to the suit worn, although it has to be used carefully as a gentleman Sapeur is always expected to ask his neighbour, even if he is not in a non smoking area, if he may light his cigar.”
What makes this story all the more fascinating is when British designer Paul Smith saw the pictures he became so inspired that he based his next menswear collection on them.
“The white man may have invented clothes,” said Congolese musician King Kester Emeneya modestly when interviewed , “but we have turned it into an art.”
The '80s book titled 'Gentlemen of Bakongo' containing the photographs by Daniele Tamagni is currently available, click here for more information.
I do hope this trend continues to reach beyond the borders of Congo. Time to take out some of my old suits perhaps...
Photography by Daniele Tamagni
Source: http://jocksandnerdsmagazine.com/m/bakongo/
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